The Bandar Seri Begawan Travel Guide [Plus 21 Things To Do]

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Bandar Seri Begawan

Bandar Seri Begawan is Brunei Darussalam’s capital and largest city. It’s home to most of Brunei’s major attractions.

Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque at sunset

Contrary to other Southeast Asian capitals, Bandar Seri Begawan is best described as peaceful or sleepy. This lack of 24/7 bustle is part of what makes Brunei a draw for travelers. The city’s air is clean and its roads are without large traffic jams. You will not encounter crowds of tourists. The way the city interweaves with the thriving rainforest makes Bandar Seri Begawan a special place. The city has the most green space of any Southeast Asian capital. It’s even normal to see tropical animals on paved sidewalks in the city center. You can go from being in a downtown cafe to on a boat, fully immersed in a mangrove forest within 10 minutes!

In this travel guide, we’ll explore Bandar Seri Begawan.

We’ll cover the city’s history, the top 21 things to do, what to eat, where to stay, the best neighborhoods, how to find the best prices on hotels/accommodation, and your transportation options in the city.

Bandar Seri Begawan’s city limits are outlined in red

*Agoda.com provides a wide selection of steeply-discounted hotel rooms. To see today’s deals on hotels in Brunei (or any other destination), click here.

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Table of Contents

• Brief History And Modern Cityscape

• Top 21 Things To Do In Bandar Seri Begawan

  • 1) Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

  • 2) Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

  • 3) Kampong Ayer

  • 4) Brunei River Mangrove Tour

  • 5) Ulu Temburong Day Trip

  • 6) Gadong Night Market

  • 7) Royal Regalia Museum

  • 8) Kota Batu Archaeological Sites

  • 9) The Empire Brunei Hotel

  • 10) Istana Nurul Iman

  • 11) Tamu Kianggeh

  • 12) Malay Technology Museum

  • 13) Ash Shaliheen Mosque

  • 14) Tasek Lama Recreational Park

  • 15) Watch A Spectacular Sunset

  • 16) Explore The City Center (Pusat Bandar)

  • 17) Brunei Museum

  • 18) Scuba Dive

  • 19) Jerudong Park

  • 20) RIPAS Bridge

  • 21) Brunei Darussalam Maritime Museum

• Where To Stay (Neighborhoods + Accommodation)

  • Pusat Bandar (City Center)

  • Gadong

  • Kampong Ayer

  • Which Neighborhood Should You Choose?

  • Best Way To Find A Hotel In Brunei

• Transportation In Bandar Seri Begawan

• Bruneian Cuisine

• Conclusion

• About The Author (Taz Zaidi)

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Brief History And Modern Cityscape

Bandar Seri Begawan has a very long and rich history. Including Kota Batu and Kampong Ayer, this area was seat of the Brunei Empire for centuries. During that era, the area was known as Bandar Brunei (Brunei Town). Among many reasons for the longevity of the Empire (500 years), Bandar Brunei’s location was one. Bandar Brunei was located at a point where the Brunei River empties into Brunei Bay. This offered easy access for Bruneians to the South China Sea. The town was perfectly situated to become a regional trading hub - where fishermen from the river could trade easily with gatherers from the rainforest.

Bruneians have been fishermen for centuries

As the local community solidified and grew, Brunei began trading internationally. Trade relations were established with communities as far away as China, evidenced by records dating back to the 14th century. With protection from Labuan Island and a safe harbor in Brunei Bay, Bandar Brunei developed into a strong mobilization point for military campaigns outside of Borneo (some all the way to the Philippines). Kota Batu was the first prominent settlement within what is now Bandar Seri Begawan’s city limits. This small neighborhood, just east of the city center and along Brunei River, is where Brunei’s first leaders established the seat of the Sultanate. It was home to a stone fort - now Brunei’s most important archaeological site.

Kota Batu is where the Bruneian Empire began

Kampong Ayer, the world’s largest village, succeeded Kota Batu as Brunei’s capital. It held this status for a few centuries, including during Sultan Bolkiah’s reign (not to be confused with the current sultan), which is fondly called Brunei’s “Golden Age” (1485-1524). James Brooke, the first “White Rajah of Sarawak”, invaded Brunei in 1846. Slowly over time, Brunei was progressively forced to cede land and power to the British Empire, until it was eventually relegated to a British protectorate state. As a protectorate state, Brunei was essentially functioning as an extension of the British Empire (operating under Britain’s desires).

After gaining control of Brunei, British officers then incentivized residents of Kampong Ayer to move from the water village to the land just across Brunei River. The importance of this area, which now makes up the modern city center, was sped up by the establishment of a new royal palace in 1909, during the era of Sultan Muhammad Jamalul Alam II. By 1920, Brunei’s new capital had been declared.

Many residents of Kampong Ayer moved across the river during the 20th century

Brunei remained a British protectorate state until the Imperial Japanese Army occupied Borneo during World War II (1941-45). Bruneians and their local infrastructure were greatly neglected during these five long years, while Japan insisted on implementing its concept of pan-Asianism (creation of a unified East Asia nation, outlined in its “Greater East Asia Co-Prosperity Sphere” philosophy). After Allied Forces defeated the Imperial Japanese Army in Borneo, Britain resumed its control of Brunei. The population shift from Kampong Ayer to the new capital town continued. By the mid-20th century, only half of Brunei’s population was still living in Kampong Ayer.

During the following decades, Brunei strategically re-built its infrastructure by investing profits from its thriving oil and gas industry into the development of social services and a modern business district. Credit goes to the intelligent decision-making of Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III, one of Brunei’s most fondly remembered leaders. This development drew immigrants to Brunei, particularly from China and South Asia. It was during these years that Brunei’s landmark and East Asia’s most beautiful mosque was built, the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.

Bandar Seri Begawan’s modern city center

In 1970, Bandar Brunei was renamed “Bandar Seri Begawan”, which translates as “Seri Begawan City” or “Seri Begawan Port” in tribute to Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III. One of Saifuddien’s royal titles was Seri Begawan. Begawan is derived from the Sanskrit word “bhagavan”, which means “aura of god”. Brunei finally gained independence on January 1st, 1984. The new era commenced in grand fashion, with the opening of the world’s largest residential palace, Istana Nurul Iman. In addition to functioning as the royal family’s residence, it’s also the seat of Brunei’s government.

View of Istana Nurul Iman from the Brunei River

Bandar Seri Begawan’s modern city center (known as “Pusat Bandar” in Malay) is where the majority of Brunei’s important businesses and tourist attractions are located. Though the city has modernized rapidly in the past 50 years, its strong Bruneian roots and cultural charm have remained. Today, the city’s entire metro population is near 300,000, while Kampong Ayer is home to only 3% of Brunei’s total population. Most Bruneians live within a short commute of BSB.

Brunei is divided into four districts.

Bandar Seri Begawan is part of the Brunei-Muara District. The other three districts are Belait, Tutong and Temburong. While Bandar Seri Begawan is now mostly modern and developed, the other districts are particularly attractive for indigenous culture, as well as among nature lovers looking for relaxation and charm.

Brunei’s 4 districts - Belait, Tutong, Brunei-Muara and Temburong

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Top 21 Things To Do In Bandar Seri Begawan

Here’s a list of the top 21 things to do in Bandar Seri Begawan, with brief descriptions of each. Click “Read More” under attractions for in-depth guides on them!

1) Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

One of the first things you’ll notice when you walk around Bandar Seri Begawan are grand, photogenic mosques. It seems like at least one of them is always visible from any point in the city.

Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is one of Brunei’s national mosques and undisputed as one of the most beautiful in East Asia. It’s become a national symbol and commonly used in tourism marketing. Saifuddien Mosque’s interior is finely constructed with Italian marble floors, granite from Shanghai, Saudi Arabian carpets and English chandeliers. Its white minarets and golden domes are visible from throughout the city center. In fact, there’s a local law that prevents any new downtown structure to be built taller than it.

A man-made lagoon with a replica of the Mahligai Barge was built along the mosque, creating an effect that resembles the Taj Mahal. Saifuddien Mosque and the surrounding area is beautifully lit after dusk. To read more about Saiffudien Mosque, click here.

Saifuddien Mosque is Brunei’s most visited attraction

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2) Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque is Brunei’s other national mosque. It was commissioned by Hassanal Bolkiah (Saifuddien III’s son and current Sultan). Like Saifuddien, Bolkiah Mosque also consistently makes lists of “Asia’s most beautiful mosques”. The mosque features a blend of modern architecture with a clear influence from the Ottoman Empire. One of the first things you’ll notice is the immaculate symmetry.

Bolkiah Mosque has 29 golden domes representing the 29 sultans who’ve led the Bruneian Empire during its storied history, which started in the 14th century. To read more about Bolkiah Mosque, click here.

Bolkiah Mosque is immaculately symmetrical

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3) Kampong Ayer

Kampong Ayer is Brunei’s most important piece of living history. A trip to the world’s largest water village is a unique experience that will stick with you long after you’ve left Borneo. The village is entirely built on stilts and inter-connected by 38 kilometers of wooden boardwalk. Called “Venice of the East” by Spanish explorer, Antonio Pigafetta, this historic village has seen a lot. It began with humbling beginnings, as a small fishermen’s village, then grew to become the seat of the Brunei Empire. Parts of the village have been destroyed by fires and invaders, but it’s always been re-built. These days, the village still has the amenities to operate self-sufficiently.

Be sure to stop by the Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery during your visit. As Kampong Ayer’s official museum, it features a permanent exhibition explaining the area’s long history, past traditions, and the current lifestyle of the residents. Take advantage of the opportunity to sleep for a night or longer in the world’s largest water village (check Agoda listings). To read more about Kampong Ayer, click here.

Kampong Ayer is the world’s largest water village

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4) Brunei River Mangrove Tour

No trip to Borneo is complete without stepping into nature. Taking a trip up Brunei River is a great way to get away from the city and see some endemic Bornean wildlife. Despite being just a few kilometers from the center of Bandar Seri Begawan, this mangrove forest truly feels like wilderness once you enter it. Here, you can encounter endangered proboscis monkeys, Asian water monitor lizard, crocodiles, unique bird species and breathtaking views of the Bandar Seri Begawan cityscape. To read more about the complete Brunei River Mangrove Tour, click here.

Proboscis monkeys have unique, protruding noses and a beautiful reddish-brown coat of fur

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5) Ulu Temburong Day Trip

Ulu Temburong National Park, affectionately called the “Green Jewel of Brunei”, is Brunei’s top national park. Ideally you’re able to spend a night or more in the Temburong District to experience the national park to its fullest, but if you’re tight on time, it’s still possible to visit Ulu Temburong as a day trip from Bandar Seri Begawan. The park offers much to do, from calm nature walks and jungle treks and zip-line. Undoubtedly, the highlight of your visit would be the Canopy Walk, where you can safely walk up to a sky bridge that offers views across the jungle canopy! To read more about Ulu Temburong Park, click here.

The Canopy Walk, where you’ll have a panoramic view over the Bornean jungle

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6) Gadong Night Market

Gadong Night Market is the best place in Brunei to try local foods. Selection and price is what separates it from the rest of the markets and restaurants. You will find various Bruneian, plus Indonesian, Malaysian and Singaporean dishes. You can fill your stomach for just a few Brunei dollars! If you’re familiar with Southeast Asian markets, Gadong may surprise you. Compared to most others in the region, Gadong is very spacious, organized and clean. The facilities were improved during the government-sponsored renovation project in 2017, but the local charm has been maintained.

The Gadong commercial area is Bandar Seri Begawan’s most bustling part of town, and easily the best place to spend your evenings. You can also visit Jerudong Fish Market during the day and The Mall, Brunei’s largest shopping mall, from morning til evening. We’ll cover more on the Gadong commercial area in the section on accommodation at the bottom of this guide. If you haven’t already, read Brunei Food Guide and 7 Fruits You Should Try In Brunei. You’ll find many of those foods at Gadong Night Market. To read more about the Gadong Night Market, click here.

Gadong Night Market has endless tasty options

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7) Royal Regalia Museum

Royal Regalia Museum features gifts given to Sultan Bolkiah by foreign heads of state. It’s fascinating to see the creativity employed in these gifts. The permanent exhibit also showcases Bolkiah’s life since childhood, Queen Saleha and her contributions, plus information about the royal family. By the time you leave, you’ll understand why the Sultan and Queen are beloved by Bruneians. As you enter the museum, you’re greeted by a large gilded chariot, built for the Silver Jubilee ceremony of 1992 and still used by the royal family in national celebrations. When not in use, it’s parked as the museum’s centerpiece for the public to see. To read more about the Royal Regalia Museum, click here.

The gilded chariot inside the Royal Regalia Museum

*For today’s deals on hotels in Brunei (or any other destination), click here.

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8) Kota Batu Archaeological Sites

Unfortunately, Kota Batu is often skipped by visitors. Though it’s only a fringe neighborhood of Bandar Seri Begawan, Kota Batu has great historical significance. It was the original capital of the Bruneian Empire. Here, an ancient palace, mosque and administrative center were built - dating to Brunei’s third Sultan, Sharif Ali. Kota Batu means “Stone Fort'“ in Malay. What still remains are Brunei’s most important archaeological sites - Kota Batu Archaeological Park, Tomb of Sultan Ali and the Mausoleum of Sultan Bolkiah. Just a short walk from the archaeological sites are three of Brunei’s major museums - Brunei Museum, Malay Technology Museum and Brunei Darussalam Maritime Museum. To read more about Kota Batu, click here.

Mausoleum of Sultan Bolkiah

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9) The Empire Brunei Hotel

The Empire Brunei is one of Southeast Asia’s most luxurious hotels. It’s one of the few “7-star hotels” in the world. Luckily, the Empire Brunei’s premises are open to the public during normal business hours - so anyone can visit for free. Built along the South China Sea on a coastal property containing an 18-hole golf course designed by Jack Nicklaus, one can easily spend a full day here. Be sure to explore the hotel’s peaceful walking trail along its coast. The hotel’s interior drips of luxury, including a $1 million USD chandelier that greets you at the grand entrance. Feel free to sit down for a meal or high tea at one of the hotel’s restaurants. To read more about Empire Brunei Hotel, click here.

The Empire Brunei Hotel

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10) Istana Nurul Iman

Istana Nurul Iman is the world’s largest residential palace. It’s the royal family’s home and the seat of the Brunei government. This is where Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah hosts world leaders. The palace is closed to the public for most of the year, except during Hari Raya (Aidil Fitri), an annual three-day holiday that celebrates successful completion of Ramadan. During Hari Raya, locals and foreigners are invited to join the grand feast in Istana Nurul Iman’s reception hall. After the feast, guests may queue to meet the Sultan or Queen. If you’re unable to visit Brunei during Hari Raya, your best bet to catch a glimpse of Istana Nurul Iman is through the Brunei River Mangrove Tour. To read more about Istana Nurul Iman, click here.

Grand entrance to Istana Nurul Iman

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11) Tamu Kianggeh

Tamu Kianggeh is Brunei’s most complete day market. It sits along the eastern side of the Kianggeh River in Bandar Seri Begawan city center. The market has been a local fixture for years, a place where fishermen from Kampong Ayer come to trade their catches with fruit vendors from the nearby land villages. Here, you’ll see a wide variety of food, including produce, spices, fully prepared meals, and fresh or salted fish. A popular draw for visitors are the dozens of colorful spice mounds, resembling the spice bazaars (souqs) found in Arab countries. These spices are sold by weight. Tamu Kianggeh is busiest on Fridays. Read our Brunei Food Guide and the 7 Fruits You Should Try In Brunei!

The bustling Tamu Kianggeh sits along Kianggeh River

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12) Malay Technology Museum

The Malay Technology Museum is a must-visit for all culture and history enthusiasts. You’ll see what life was like in Kampong Ayer (including its customs, art and lifestyle). You’ll walk through life-sized huts, featuring model humans depicted exactly as they were assumed to have been during daily life a few centuries ago. You’ll observe how handicrafts, textiles and boats were made and see how sago (main ingredient in Brunei’s national dish, Ambuyat) is extracted. You’ll leave understanding of how Brunei’s rich fishing history developed. The museum even has an intact “lintau”, an ingenious fishing trap highly effective at funneling fish to a narrowing point of no return. To read more about Malay Technology Museum, click here.

Learn about Bruneians’ customs and traditions

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13) Ash Shaliheen Mosque

Ash Shaliheen Mosque looks like a mosque that you’d encounter in Morocco or Spain. Built in Andalusian form, Ash Shaliheen continues Brunei’s tradition of blending its own style with architectural styles from around the Islamic world. Its bright blue domes atop creamy vanilla walls make it a must-visit for fans of religious architecture. The mosque’s interior is worth checking out. A retractable roof opens up to a scenic, peaceful courtyard. To read more about Ash Shaliheen Mosque, click here.

Ash Shaliheen Mosque was built in the Andalusian style

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14) Tasek Lama Recreational Park

Tasek Lama is a natural escape conveniently located at the doorstep of the BSB city center. The entrance to the park is located on Jalan Tasek Lama (Tasek Lama Road), only a 20 minute walk from the Royal Regalia Museum. Entrance to the park is free. Apart from the sometimes imposing Borneo sun (better to visit during morning or late afternoon hours), Tasek Lama’s trails are not physically demanding (all beginner-friendly). The most popular trail leads to Tasek Lama waterfall, which is even larger and busier than Teraja Waterfall in the Belait District on the western side of Brunei.

Tasek Lama Waterfall sits at the end of a short trail

OTHER URBAN PARKS

Bandar Seri Begawan actually offers many parks. It’s often called the “greenest” capital city in Southeast Asia. If urban green spaces are of interest, consider two others in BSB - Bukit Subok Recreational Park and Tamam Persiaran Damuan Park. Bukit Subok sits along the Brunei River, right beside RIPAS Bridge. There’s an elevated wooden platform in the park, which offers an unobstructed panoramic view of the Brunei River, RIPAS Bridge and the surrounding area. Tamam Persiaran is an open green space popular with families, for its short walking trails and playground. It sits just west of Istana Nurul Iman.

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15) Watch A Spectacular Sunset

With so much coastline and intact rainforest, Brunei offers some spectacular sunsets and views. Even if you can’t make it to the best sunsets spots in west Brunei (Pantai Seri Kenangan in Tutong or Billionth Barrel Monument in Belait), you still have options in BSB. Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas is the best place in the city to catch a sunset. The elevated platform offers a panoramic view of the city center, Brunei River and Saifuddien Mosque all from one spot! No need to arrive early though, as the park offers little shade! The next best spot to see sunsets in Bandar Seri Begawan is from the Empire Brunei Hotel. The coastal property offers unimpeded views of the vast South China Sea.

The view from Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas

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16) Explore The City Center (Pusat Bandar)

Bandar Seri Begawan city center (called Pusat Bandar) has many things to see and do. Apart from Saifuddien Mosque, the Royal Regalia Museum and Tasek Lama Recreational Park, there are other attractions you’ll see just by strolling around. Across from the Royal Regalia is the Lapau. This building is closed to the public, but noteworthy as the site where Sultan Bolkiah was first crowned in 1968. Adjacent to the Royal Regalia is the Brunei History Centre, a public building with a few historical exhibits.

A block away from the Brunei History Centre, along Kianggeh Road, is the Teng Yun Temple. Its bright red and green paint is very easy to spot. The functioning Chinese temple is open to visitors. In addition to being a religious center, Teng Yun is a tribute to the large Chinese-Bruneian community, which has been key to Brunei’s development. The Chinese were some some of the first non-Bornean immigrants to settle in Brunei, and China was one of the Bruneian Empire’s first trading partners in recorded history.

Teng Yun Temple is easy to spot

Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Complex is an indoor shopping center which sits along the Brunei River, besides the jetty where you’ll see boats depart to Kampong Ayer. Nearby Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Complex is Mercu Dirgahayu 60, a gold monument erected as a celebration of Bolkiah’s 60th birthday. It depicts the number 60 in Arabic script.

Mercu Dirgahayu 60 monument along the Brunei River

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17) Brunei Museum

The Brunei Museum (called Muzium Brunei in Malay) is Brunei’s primary history and ethnology museum. As the country’s official national museum, it opened in February 1972, a dozen years before Brunei independence, in the presence of Queen Elizabeth II of England. The exhibits covers various subjects, from the history of Brunei’s indigenous peoples, to Brunei’s archaeological sites and displays of Islamic art made domestically and internationally. It’s the best place to learn about the Brunei Empire’s long history - from its inception in Kota Batu, to its expansion to Manila in the Phillipines, to the Castilian War with Spain, and the struggle against European colonial powers. To read more about the museums of Brunei, click here.

Fishermen have always been important in Brunei

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18) Scuba Dive

Most people don’t consider Brunei when they think of scuba diving in Southeast Asia. However, the diving industry is growing quickly, thanks to some incredible World War II shipwrecks, which are well-maintained and have become artificial reefs with thriving marine life. Since its reefs don’t suffer from over-tourism, like some other Southeast Asian countries, Brunei is also a great place to learn how to dive. Costs are competitive and underwater visibility is great. If you’re interested in diving in Brunei, check out these dive tours with Poni Divers. Their Fun Dive packages are perfect for beginners wanting to learn how, or for certified divers seeking macro or wreck dives with a solid company. To read more about diving in Brunei, click here.

Brunei has some incredible shipwreck dive sites

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19) Jerudong Park

According to many, Jerudong Park is Southeast Asia’s best amusement park. It’s received this title for a few reasons, including being Southeast Asia’s largest amusement park, and costing $1 billion USD to build (fully government funded). In addition to local Bruneians, Jerudong is also popular with Malaysians, Indonesians and Filipinos. The park has been host to famous global acts, including Michael Jackson and Whitney Houston. While bigger names perform during celebrations of the royal family, lesser known acts commonly perform on any standard weekend. Entrance to Jerudong Park is free. You’ll pay per ride.

Merry-go-round in Jerudong Park

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20) RIPAS Bridge

The RIPAS Bridge, officially Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Hajah Saleha Bridge, was commissioned by Sultan Bolkiah as a tribute to his wife, Queen Saleha. At 622 meters in length, it’s much shorter than Temburong Bridge (the longest in Southeast Asia), but arguably more beautiful. Its golden dome pierces the sky, resembling the minarets of Saifuddien Mosque and Bolkiah Mosque. You can access RIPAS Bridge on your way from the city center to Kota Batu, or by walking to it from Kampong Ayer. The bridge has a pedestrian lane, so you can walk across safely.

The RIPAS Bridge is beautifully lit during the evening

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21) Brunei Darussalam Maritime Museum

The Brunei Darussalam Maritime Museum showcases Brunei’s lengthy history as a trade powerhouse. Ideally situated near the mouth of the Brunei Bay, with easy access to the South China Sea, Brunei was a thriving trade hub since at least the 14th century. Records show Brunei was a trading partner with civilizations as far away as China and the Southeast Asia mainland during that era. The Maritime Museum’s main exhibit also highlights a shipwreck found 50 kilometers off Brunei’s coast. This ship was transporting thousands of artifacts, some dating as far back as 500 years. To read more about the museums of Brunei, click here.

*For today’s deals on hotels in Brunei (or any other destination), click here.

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Where To Stay

[Neighborhoods & Accommodation]

Most travelers who visit Brunei choose to stay in one of three neighborhoods of Bandar Seri Begawan. All three of these neighborhoods are conveniently located near multiple attractions and only a short trip away from the other two. These three neighborhoods are: Pusat Bandar, Gadong and Kampong Ayer.

Pusat Bandar (City Center)

The most common place to stay in Bandar Seri Begawan is Pusat Bandar (city center). Here, you’ll be near most of the city’s attractions and just a short walk from Bandar Seri Begawan Main Station, the country’s public transportation hub. There are various hotel options in Pusat Bandar, catering to all budgets, from backpackers to business travelers. Almost all businesses in the city center shut down by evening, but you can still safely walk around the riverfront area at night. To read more about safety in Brunei, click here.

Bandar Seri Begawan’s city center, also called Pusat Bandar

Gadong

Gadong commercial area is the busiest and most active section of Bandar Seri Begawan. This is where locals come to enjoy their free time during evenings and weekends. This walkable area is home to the Gadong Night Market, Jerudong Fish Market and The Mall (Brunei’s largest shopping mall). Within the Gadong commercial area is a variety of accommodation, dining and shopping options. Don’t expect luxury stores here, instead you’ll find various low priced goods (compared to Europe or East Asia), from clothes to electronics. If you want evening options, whether local restaurants or chains like McDonalds, you’ll probably prefer Gadong over Pusat Bandar. Because Brunei is a dry country (meaning the sale and public consumption of alcohol are prohibited), Gadong is the closest thing you’ll find in Brunei to a busy nightlife scene.

The Mall, located in the Gadong commercial area

Kampong Ayer

Staying in Kampong Ayer might be the most unique and enriching accommodation choice to be had in Brunei. Sleeping in Kampong Ayer isn’t a well-known option among travelers, as most are unaware it’s even possible! Most only consider visiting Kampong Ayer as part of a day trip. However, just browse Agoda for a few minutes and you’ll see multiple listings. Kampong Ayer isn’t highly touristic (yet), which allows guests an authentic experience. Of the three neighborhoods to choose from, Kampong Ayer is the best if you seek a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Rather than the typical hotel setup, you’ll find guesthouses and private homes where you can immerse yourself in the world’s largest water village, and view incredible sunsets and sunrises.

Kampong Ayer is a magical place to stay

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Which Neighborhood Should You Choose?

You won’t go wrong choosing Pusat Bandar, Gadong or Kampong Ayer. All three are only a bus, taxi or 1 BND water taxi trip from Bandar Seri Begawan’s major attractions. The choice comes down to your preference of environment and experience. For the ultimate luxury experience, the Empire Brunei Hotel is your best choice. This immaculately country club is one of the world’s few 7-star luxury hotels. Luckily, prices for Empire Brunei’s lowest-tier rooms are lower than other hotels of similar quality (globally). Rather than recommending specific hotels/lodging options (service and quality will certainly change over time), the best way to find a great place to stay in Brunei is to use the most reliable search options, which leads us to…

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Best Way To Find A Hotel In Brunei

Agoda.com is well-known in Brunei (and Southeast Asia) for providing amazing deals on a wide range of accommodation options. You’ll find luxury or budget hotels, resorts, villas, hostels, apartments, guesthouses, bed and breakfasts, and unique/alternative types). Use the widget below or click here to search in Brunei.

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Transportation In Bandar Seri Begawan

Between public bus, taxi and Dart, navigating the city is quite easy. Public bus connects the neighborhoods. Taxis are abundant in Pusat Bandar and Gadong. Dart is Brunei’s local ride-sharing app, similar to Uber and Grab (neither operate in Brunei). For Dart, click here. Bandar Seri Begawan Main Station is centrally located, just a block from the Brunei River, at the intersection of Jalan Saifuddien and Jalan Cator. Here you’ll see public buses organized by color and direction (Northern Line, Western Line, etc).

An Eastern Line bus waiting at a bus stop

The cost to get from Bandar Seri Begawan Main Station to Brunei International Airport via bus is only 1 BND. Line 57 will take you to the airport, as well as to the Empire Brunei Hotel in Jerudong. You can also take buses from Bandar Seri Begawan Main Station to Pekan Tutong in Tutong and Seria in Belait. If you’re depending on public buses during your visit, keep in mind that they start their routes early but generally end by dark (sometimes as early as 6 pm). Here’s a PDF of the Brunei-Muara Public Bus Route Network, up-to-date as of December 2023. Brunei-Muara is one of Brunei’s 4 districts (where BSB is located).

For river transport to Kampong Ayer, simply take a water taxi from Bandar Seri Begawan main jetty. You’ll find the jetty behind Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah shopping mall. The cost of a trip across the river to Kampong Ayer is 1 BND. To read more about the general travel costs in Brunei, click here.

Bandar Seri Begawan’s main jetty

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Bruneian Cuisine

Eating Bruneian food will be one of the best parts of your trip. Brunei cuisine is a mix of local, traditional dishes with regional cuisine from neighbor countries like Malaysia and Indonesia, plus distant countries like India and China. Brunei’s cuisine incorporates a range of spices and ingredients, resulting in flavorful dishes. Ambuyat, Brunei’s national dish, and Nasi Katok, the national fast food, both have interesting origin stories which instill pride in Bruneians. For a complete guide on these dishes, where to find them, and the rest of Brunei’s cuisine, read our full Brunei Food Guide.

Ambuyat, fully laid out and ready to be enjoyed!

Eating Brunei’s fruits is also a memorable experience. Borneo’s vast, tropical rainforest (the Equator crosses the island) produces a wide range and abundance of fresh produce. For more information, be sure to read 7 Fruits You Should Try In Brunei. Lastly, remember that Brunei follows Islamic law. This means all food is prepared in the halal manner. As a “dry country”, the sale and public consumption of alcohol is forbidden. It’s possible to bring alcohol into Brunei for private consumption, but there are rules regarding this. To read about Brunei’s alcohol rules, click here.

Bandar Seri Begawan doesn’t offer much in regards to nightlife. Since alcohol isn’t served, there are no bars. Still, a handful of restaurants and cafes remain open until 10 pm, and even a few until midnight. The highest concentration of late night restaurants is found in the Gadong area. Most restaurants in Brunei close during Friday prayer. The exact time varies depending on the time of year, but expect a prayer break to start roughly around noon and last about 1-2 hours.

*For today’s deals on hotels in Brunei (or any other destination), click here.

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Conclusion

Hopefully you found this guide helpful.

Bandar Seri Begawan offers stark contrast to congested megacities in Southeast Asia. But this is where Bandar Seri Begawan gets its charm and appeal. Brunei is not the place to visit if you want over-stimulation. Instead, it’s where you’ll re-connect with nature and absorb a local culture that sticks with you after you’ve left. This is not a tourist hotspot yet, but it certainly offers the history, attractions and low prices to become one in the future. So take the opportunity to experience this remote destination soon! To learn more about Brunei, explore our other guides below.

Enjoy your travels!

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Explore Bandar Seri Begawan through these tours, each organized by Viator and run by locals!

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More Brunei Guides

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